When it comes to selecting fertilizers, we’ve tried many options. Ultimately, we chose bagged worm castings. These fertilizers are rich and dark, non-toxic, and highly fertile. It’s important to note that human waste is the most toxic due to the consumption of processed foods. Additionally, sheep manure often contains weed seeds, making it less desirable, and chicken manure, which often contains hormones from artificial feed, isn’t suitable despite being readily available.
In previous articles, I mentioned using worms to decompose food waste, which garnered significant interest. Here, I’ll provide a more detailed explanation. For those interested, you can try it out as well.
We didn’t initially buy a professional worm bin; instead, we made one ourselves using an opaque storage box with four holes on each side for ventilation. After the worms arrived, we prepared their food and bedding, including banana peels, orange peels, eggshells, and cauliflower stems. We blended these scraps, mixed them with shredded newspaper, and created a moist environment for the worms. The worms came with soil, which we spread evenly across the box.
After a week, we checked to see if the worms had burrowed into the soil and if the food scraps had disappeared. This indicated that the worms had adapted well to their environment. Once the worms consumed the food waste, we added more.
Worms produce a liquid known as worm tea (a mix of worm urine and dissolved worm castings), a fantastic organic liquid fertilizer. However, this can make the environment too moist, which worms dislike. Since our DIY box didn’t have a drainage system, we had to add more shredded newspaper to balance the moisture levels. This was one of the drawbacks of using a homemade bin.
Eventually, we purchased a professional worm bin, like the one shown in the image below. The bottom of this bin has a dedicated tray and spigot to collect worm tea, making moisture regulation easier. The worm bin in the picture is only one layer; once the compost in the first layer is full, we add a second layer. The worms will migrate to the second layer through gaps in the bottom as they finish decomposing the food waste. This process can be repeated until the first layer is ready to be harvested as fertilizer.
This method is excellent for households without gardens but with plants, allowing them to decompose food waste and produce organic fertilizer. I also want to mention kitchen sink disposals. In a previous article, I discussed how composting is the best way to manage food waste, followed by disposal in the sink to minimize landfill use and reduce methane emissions.
However, not all sewage treatment facilities are equipped to handle large amounts of food waste. Where facilities are adequate, food waste can be processed by microorganisms, and the byproducts can even be turned into fertilizer. But this is not the case everywhere, so it’s essential to check whether disposing of food waste down the sink is recommended in your area.
Finally, I added 2-3 cm of clay pebbles to the bottom of the bin, followed by 10 cm of soil, sprinkled with fava beans, cucumber peels, and a duck neck, along with three bags of red worms from the market. I covered it with a wooden board to allow air circulation. I noticed maggots growing, so I added more soil, and it seemed to help.
The tools needed for this setup are simple: a bucket, an empty bottle, a needle, a candle, a small file, and some silicone tape. The bottom of the bucket was raised with bricks to allow water drainage. The goal was to let the excess water drip down. Worms prefer soft food scraps, so avoid hard items like fava beans or animal waste, as worms cannot digest them.
To ensure proper ventilation, consider adding small holes in the lid for airflow. If the bucket has no access to rainwater, drill small holes in the lid to allow ventilation without allowing the worms to escape. Worms can eat most kitchen scraps, but avoid hard foods like fava beans unless they’ve softened. Similarly, avoid placing animal waste like duck necks in the bin.
Drilling holes in the lid is advisable, as side holes can get clogged with worm castings, and worms may escape.
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